Batanes Misadventures

The Batanes islands are among the northernmost areas in the Philippines, located  162 kilometers off the coast of mainland Luzon and are considered a tourism hotspot because of the gorgeous natural attractions that dot the mini archipelago.

Mountains, cliffs, forests, caves, beaches, everything a nature junkie could ask for can be found in Batanes, which is why travelers drool for the opportunity to visit. I got to live this dream last April 30-May 5, and I will be talking about those misadventures on this post. I figure this is going to be a lengthy read for some of you, but to leave out some of the details would bastardize the sheer awesomeness of the trip.

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First off, I’ve been receiving numerous inquiries on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter (this might be the only time I get to be a celebrity LMAO) about the basics of the trip, I’m going to answer them here:

 

• How did you get to Batanes?

Via Magic Carpet. No, seriously by plane. Since I’m from the Visayas, I flew via AirAsia to Clark International Airport in Angeles, Pampanga. From there, I boarded a one-and-a-half-hour Philippine Airline flight to Basco Batanes. (Flights from NAIA to Basco are also available for Cebu Pacific, SkyJet and AirSwift.)

• Did you get a package tour from a Tourist Agency?

No. Not fond of those.

• Where did you stay?

We stayed on two different homes. On Batan island (where Basco is located), we stayed at a room in Ivatan Lodge that I found listed on AirBNB.

On Itbayat island, we stayed at Nanay Cano’s Homestay.

• Is Batanes as amazing as they say it is?

I’d go as far and say it’s even more amazing than what you see in the pictures.

• Is it costly to go there?

You’re investing in a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and get to genuinely relax from the dumpster fire that is urban life, soooooo….

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April 29, Sunday

Clark, Pampanga

My flight from Iloilo International Airport to Clark (which was an hour long) was at 3:30PM, while my next flight to Basco was at 6:10AM the following day. I had roughly 14 hours to kill, so I went to SM Clark. Wandering aimlessly inside was an ok-ish time killer.

I went back to the airport when SM closed at around 10PM and I need to mention how much I enjoyed the conversation my metalhead Grab driver and I had — his Pulp SummerSlam experience and the time I saw Incubus live in Manila.

I still had about 7 hours to kill, so I spent that time trying to read and listening to this group of teachers from Silay, Negros Occidental gossip about their co-workers. They had no clue I can understand Hiligaynon 😂😂😂. Shout-outs to y’all!

April 30, Monday

Basco/North Batan Island

My plane arrived at Basco Airport at around 7:20AM, way earlier than its ETA (my companions arrived via Cebu Pacific several minutes later). We then met Nanay Luz, the owner of the room that I booked on AirBNB. She took us to her home, which was literally a few steps away from the airport’s back gate, fed us breakfast and transported us to the lodge (which was near their pier). Basco is such a small place, it doesn’t take you long to get anywhere. We rested for a bit (I had zero sleep at this point) and started our tour at 1PM.

• We rode in two tricycles with cogon roofs, and our first destination was Basco’s oldest church. There’s not much you can do there except take pictures.
• Next, we went to the PAGASA station, where guests to the island are treated with a fantastic view of Batanes’ famed cliffs and ocean views (this is mostly a preview of even better scenes thought). Most of the PAGASA facilities, including a Dopler Radar used to monitor the weather, were severely damaged by Typhoon Ferdie in 2017.
• We then proceeded to the Dipnaysupuan Japanese tunnel and bunker. It’s a hole in the mountainside where the Japanese his during World War 2. If you played the 2013 Tomb Raider videogame for XBox and PlayStation, you would be geeking out how the bunker gives you all the Yamatai feels.

  

• Our next destination was Valugan Boulder Beach. Valugan Boulder Beach was formed when Mt. Iraya, Batan Island’s highest peak, erupted in 400 A.D. Large volcanic rocks were scattered on the beachfront during the explosion, replacing most of the sandy beach with boulders. Over the centuries, the strong Pacific waves have polished the rocks into what they are today.
• The Basco Rolling Hills were the next stop in our itinerary. Hills rolling everywhere, with a great view of the ocean. It feels like literally everywhere in Batanes gives you a great view of the ocean. My sleep-deprived self kept singing “A Whole New World”. Check it out on the video below.
• Our final destination for the day was the Naidi Hills Lighthouse. If you’re into dramatic sunset photographs, then this place is for you!

May 1, Tuesday

Itbayat Island

We spent our second day in Batanes over at Itbayat island, which is a three-hour Faluwa (traditional Ivatan ocean transport) ride across the open sea. I’ve experienced some of the biggest waves of my life midway through this trip. The Faluwa  usually leaves Basco pier at 6 in the morning.

One thing to note is that Itbayat has no beach, the island, which is nearer to Taiwan than mainland Luzon, literary is made up of cliffs, meaning they cant make piers where the boats are higher than the landing bay, so you have to jump (preferably time your jump with the wave) from the boat up to the port.

We stayed at Nanay Cano’s Homestay, where we met friendly travelers from Manila. We were oriented by Nanay Cano, who is a retired teacher, about the history and geography of Itbayat Island and the whole Batanes group of islands as well. She was the one who arranged our itinerary and provided us with guides/drivers.

• Tour started at 10 AM. We rode in pairs on two tricycles driven by Olan and this other dude whose name i forgot, for which I am terribly sorry. I suck with names. We were accompanied by our guide Hector. The three were very pleasant people, which as a common trait among Ivatans.
• First stop was the viewing deck on top of Mt. Karaboboan, the highest point in Itbayat. You can see all the other uninhabited islets around Itbayat, and Hector said you can see the night lights from Taiwan on a clear night from here. Cool, no?

  

• Our next destination is this cliff area around Torongan Hills where you get a magnificent view of the ocean and surrounding cliffside. You have to trek for 30 mins or so up a steep mountainside under the afternoon sun. No biggie. The view was totally worth it.
• From the cliff, we kept walking a trail for another half hour to Torongan Cave which had significant historical implications it was inhabited by the Austronesians from Formosa (aka Taiwan) who arrived on “Philippine” soil in 2000 BC. There was even a burial site within the cave system. I was not informed that one had to scale the rocky walls of the mountain to get to the cave LMAO!! I’m always game but being told beforehand would’ve been nice. The end of the cave led to a cliff that dropped to the Pacific ocean.
• We then went to Itbayat airstrip. It is an empty airfield where private planes and military planes used to land in, but is currently not utilized by commercial airlines. The construction of an arrival center and control tower is currently under way. Itbayat natives hope this would serve as an alternate tourist landing spot when Basco airport inevitably gets temporarily shut down for renovation.
• Our group passed by a little lake where people can throw a line and fish for carps, tilapias, etc.
• We caught another glimpse of the sunset on another cliff. This island is literally surrounded by them.
• Our final destination for the day was Itbayat Fishport/Blue Lagoon area, where locals were preparing to set sail for another night of catching fish (and fending off great white sharks, no really fishermen have told tales of great white shark encounters LOL).
• Literally beside the fishing port is Blue Lagoon. It’s a lagoon where you can swim if you’re really good at it. Again, Itbayat has no beach, its surrounded by cliffs, once you take a plunge into the water, it’s going to be a very deep plunge. Also, the waves coming from the very open West Philippine Sea are strong, which ~can~ sweep you all the way to Taiwan. This place provides a very good view of the sunset. Several cameras on tripods have been placed by travelers to take time lapse videos of the setting sun

May 2, Wednesday

Mt. Riposed/Rapang Cliff/Stone Bell

• Our group, along with several other groups of travelers, left for the trail going up Mt. Riposed at 3am. It is a 3-kilometer trek up and down the mountain and through a forest and grassy fields, in the freaking dark. Why? To catch the rising sun on a plateau above Rapang Cliff. It seriously felt like a Pokemon adventure.
• Savored the rising sun once we arrived at the plateau.
• We then proceeded to trek up the mountain again to reach the Stone Bell — a natural rock formation that sounds like a bell when struck. Locals say the ancients used this rock to herd their goats — yes the goats seem to respond to the sound of the Rock Bell by forming a line. Neat.

  

• Several groups, including ours went further up the mountain, where I again found myself scaling freaking rocks to reach a giant eagle-nest-like rock structure that gives you the best view of the ocean just as the sun finally comes up in all its nuclear glory.
• Trekked back to the tricycle (per my iPhone, I already walked 10000 steps and the sun’s barely up. No biggie). and headed back to our Homestay for breakfast and to prepare for another oceanic voyage back to Batan island.
• Caught the boat back to Batan Island. Another three hours in the open sea. Yay. The waves were gnarlier than from yesterday and I swear one almost made the boat fly. Those were some of the biggest wave I’ve ever encountered, but being tossed around like that, it was oddly cathartic, I felt no fear, no anxiety. All I could think of was Paramore’s lyrics that go “you are the wave I could never tame, if I survive I’ll dive back in”. No, I do not have a death wish.
• Caught up on some sleep once we arrived back in Basco (same AirBNB homestay as our first day).
• Went around Basco at night. The probinsya feels is so good. More on that in my next post.
• Went to Pension Ivatan Restaurant for dinner. It’s a quaint little restaurant near the airport, which is a walking distance from literally everywhere.
• The Basco town plaza was full of people because they had a cultural contest as part of their Araw ng Basco festivities.

May 3, Thursday

South Batan

The South Batan tour was more of like a field trip with many side tours.

• Our first stop was the Tayid Lighthouse where a pair of playful, cute little doggos from a nearby house welcomed us. The view of the sunrise was stellar.
• Second stop was the Marlboro Hills/Racuh A Payaman nature preserve — it’s a hilly area that reminds you of New Zealand with a great view of the sea (like, as you’ve probably noticed, most of Batanes).
• Went to Chapel of San Lorenzo Ruiz.

  

   

• Went around South Batan’s countryside where it’s filled with gorgeous rocky and sandy beaches.
• Went to various old churches.
• Went to the Honesty Store and Souvenir Shop. Nobody is manning the place — you get what you want, there’s a price list on the counter, drop your payment on the box.
• Went to a ship shelter. Since Batanes is prone to strong storm surges and typhoons, the locals built ship shelters to…. shelter their ships from storms!
• Went to White Beach, where the sight of the ocean almost immediately revitalizes your weary, empty soul. Also, it was amusing to check out these girls taking pina-blogger photos. I wish I knew their Instagram names. lol
• A storm was brewed at night and the electricity was out for half an hour lol. Power outage in the province is…. calming to be quite frank, unlike in the city where every fiber of your being would go on a fit of raaaaaaage when power would suddenly go out.

May 4, Friday

Basco

 

• Strolled around Basco and immersed ourselves with the warm and friendly locals.

  

• Biked around Basco. There are plenty of bike rental shops where guests can ride bikes in and around Basco.
• Went to a beach where it was actually a marine reserve and was full of corals and starfishes and something that I assumed to be a baby kraken.

May 5, Saturday

Farewell, Batanes

Like all misadventures, this one had to end. It sucks, but that’s how life goes.

Went to SM Mall of Asia when we got back to Manila because of course. -__- Every single ounce of good vibes that I acquired in the 5 days I spent in Batanes has disappeared in 2 hours. Hooray for the big city.

May 6, Sunday

• Randomly strolled around Newport City in Pasay.
• Went to Venice Grand Canal Mall in Taguig to meet some friends. They have a statue of me there! I was flattered.

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I did some amateur vlogging, as promised, so here they are!

Day 1: 

Day 2: 

Day 3: 

Day 4: