One of the most enchanting places I’ve visited is Siquijor Island in the southern Philippines. Of course, when one Google’s “Siquijor”, countless of blogs and articles, as well as YouTube vlogs discussing in painful detail the wonders of the island province pop up. I won’t be adding to the noise. If you want to know facts and tidbits about the stunning beaches as well as the spooky mysticism that shrouds Siquijor, this post is not for you. Again, find them on Wikipedia or on your favorite YouTuber’s channel.
Having said all, what I will be talking about is MY experience in the island, which obviously shouldn’t be taken as representative of what a general traveler would experience there. Go figure it out for yourself.
How Did You Get To Siquijor?
From Cebu City where I am based, we took a long ass, 4-hour bus ride from the North Cebu Bus Terminal all the way to the southern town of Santander, where the ferries bound for Siquijor are found. We took the 3 AM bus, so we’d make it to the first trip.
The ferry ride is a 2-hour trip across the narrow strip of sea surrounding Negros Oriental, Cebu, Bohol, and Siquijor. (Side note: this area of water is rich in biodiversity where dolphins, sharks, whales, even my favorite animals the Orca are found. As an animal nerd, I am stoked.)
Upon arriving at Maria town in Siquijor (where the pier was located), we rented motorbikes to get to the other side of the island where the capital, Siquijor (yes they named the town the same name as the island/province because people in the past were creative people). I am not fond of motorbikes sooooo it was an unpleasant ride to say the least. But I won’t dwell on that LMAO.
Where Did You Stay In Siquijor?
On our first night, we stayed at a resort in Salagdoong Beach, where the rooms were free! One of our companions worked for the government, the Department of Tourism methinks, and it turns out Salagdoong is government-owned.
On the second night, we stayed at a for-rent house owned by a relative of one of our companions.
Salagdoong Beach
I don’t really need to describe what activities one can do at the beach, can I? Besides the obvious, Salagdoong Beach has a 40, 50-foot platform overlooking a cliff where the brave and the bold could, should one face a bout of insanity, jump into the ocean below. The platform offers a freaking great view of the horizon, and is a damn good place to shoot emo photos. Again, for the adventurous deranged ones, a 50-foot plunge into the deep blue is enough to satiate that boner for adrenaline.
The Old Enchanted Balete Tree
The Balete tree is the Filipino version of a spirit-tree that one sees in fantasy shows. It is said in folk stories that supernatural beings, from tikablangs, to white ladies, to enkantos reside in them. Of course, us rational beings know that the balete tree is a parasitic organism that feeds on the nutrients of an existing tree, but don’t let facts get in the way of a good horror story.
Now add all that spooky stuff with the inherent spiritual vibe engulfing the whole of Siquijor, and you get the Old Enchanted Balete Tree, which is allegedly known to possess magical powers, if you believe in that. Indeed, merchants sell wares such as amulets, “potions”, dream catchers, lucky charms — all the good stuff, in the vicinity, no doubt to capitalize on the cowardliness of man and his need for protection against misfortune.
At the base of the tree is a fish spa, where one can their feet onto the water and let fish, the non-spirit world kind I believe, to eat the dead skin. It is ticklish and fun. As an Avatar: The Last Air Bender nerd, I like to imagine that this is the Spirit Oasis where the Moon and Ocean Spirits Tui and La reside.
Siquijor Patronal Fiesta
Our trip coincided with the Patronal Fiesta of Siquijor, in honor of… some Catholic saint whose name I can’t be bothered to remember right now. Just Google it or something. Anyway, as mentioned earlier, we had a companion who had family in Siquijor so we did what any decent Filipino would do and mooched off food from some stranger’s home. Three in fact. At night. In an alleged ghoul-infested town.
Many would warn non-Siquijor people to be wary of free food offered on the island as they could be laced with spooky magic stuff that could cause the eater to suffer supernatural things like mind control, or transformation a la Circe in the Odyssey. Or you know, just flat out die. With poison. I clearly do not believe all the supernatural stuff, but I am paranoid of strange food in general, but that didn’t stop me from having a good time.
In the end, none of us became hypnotized and stayed to become a witch’s lover, nobody transformed into a three-headed bat, and certainly nobody lost a life at that time. All’s well that end’s well.
Also, it was pretty cool after because the girlfriend of one of our companions wanted coffee so the two of us looked for coffee. We ended up in a semi-lit area of a dark street with a vending machine that dispensed coffee. Never did I imagine I’d get the chance to hang out in some dark ass random Siquijor street in the middle of the night during the town fiesta while drinking coffee. I was lowkey waiting for a wakwak to appear but sadly (luckily?) none did so. Maybe it’s because they don’t exist.
Cambugahan Falls
Again, the place is pretty self-explanatory. What does one do at a waterfalls but swim right? And take emo photos. There is a swing where one can launch themselves onto the water below if you’re into that stuff.
Overall, I enjoyed what Siquijor had to offer. One does not need to believe the supernatural for them to enjoy the atmosphere in a purported supernatural island. Indeed the people enjoy their identity and have in fact embraced it. Just by looking around, their is this… delightful ambiance that I have a hard time putting in to words. Whatever it is, it was enough to charm even a cynic like me.
But also, do not cloud your judgement with the concept that maybe Siquijor is too scary for you. It’s not. The scenery, especially the beaches, are too damn good for one to dismiss simply because your lola told you witches and ghouls reside in the island. Again, experience it for yourself.
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